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First breakup

 


Above you can see broken output shaft after another stand still burnout. Interesting that original version is not solid style, meanwhile stare I put in from diesel version is solid - not a tube style like original.

After some thinking come with conclusion that this was caused by wheel bounce, cause original engine/gearbox mounts and not enough rpm and wet road and tyre pressure or just some of mentioned :)
Anyhow polyurethane ones rest on shelf already and be tested some time around. 

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MacGyver style

 Clucth was slipping to had to do something with it. Well slipping when abused, I would guess that used normally it would last another 30kkm.  Anyhow, option 1 was refresh only clutch with pressure plate, plus machine out pressure mounting area on flywheel, option 2 switch to single mass flywheel kit from valeo. Last one seemed better option, cause it improves clutch pedal response and stays standard/daily vs sport clutch grip, also torque output doesn't require to go non standard over 244mm diameter.  Bellow is lock tool hacked for torquing flywheel to spec. Welding stick on hand sometimes saves some headache. Used the chance to refresh crankshaft seal, good old wood brick and hammer did it's magic. Bellow you can see macgyver style tool to pulling out gearbox shaft bearing from inside crankshaft, worked like a charm. Another interesting solution was used to fix this Well maybe dumb, but didn't have other ideas, so just cut those bolts to the surface ant drilled holes. U...

Fun part in the back

 So things in front of the car were taken care first, also required less custom work. I read that e36, e46 standard issue with subframe mounting need to be eliminated if drifting is in the menu, so decided to check what state mine is in: Pictures speak for themselves but in short situation was not great, standard some would call Even daily driven car appears to be in risk for mounting layers to crack and disconnect from chassis welds. Youtube helped to understand metal sandwich layers and how weld inner structure to outer layer and overlaying custom plates into one.  I am amateur welder pro would tell for sure, but from my understanding it should be good enough. As someone said, know how to grind if welding isn't your strong side :) And some care need to be done from the trunk area as well, cause inner construction car disconnect from chassis layer there as well. Interesting part was differential welding. Also googled/youtubed that just welding gears won't last and extra plate...

Oil soup

 After another nice ride check underneath by beater and found oil soaking down from the engine. After some inspection made assumption that oil filter housing seal is done. Omg, it was done totally, rubber was like really hard plastic. After googling a bit, found out this is another standard bmw thing, basically 20 years made their part. This fix was cheep, 2.5eur for elring seal, and relatively easy. Also changed oil line from oil housing into vanos unit, was leaking slowly. Those kinda fixes are kinda optional, but to my mind when car is used on it's limit become required, or if want car to not fail randomly. Also new termostat went in this round, not liking fluctuating engine temp at all. Note, woring on termostat this happened But welding machine helped me out Old termostat had strange o-ring stuck between parts.   So far so good, need winter tyres on the front and hunt for action time.